Camalig: A Town Shaped by History, Faith, and Nature

Camalig, Albay is a town rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. It is one of the municipalities in the province of Albay, that borders the Mayon Volcano. Known for being a great vantage point to view the volcano’s majestic shape, it is home to tourist destinations like Sumlang Lake, the Quituinan Hills and the Hoyop-hoyopan Caves. From its prehistoric roots and colonial past, Camalig has evolved into a thriving community known for its culinary heritage, agricultural prosperity, and scenic landscapes.

Prehistoric and Spanish Colonial History

Archaeological findings, such as the potteries and implements found in Hoyop-hoyopan Caves, suggest that Camalig was inhabited as early as 200 BC to 900 AD, during the early Iron Age. The name “Camalig” is derived from the kinamalig, native huts used for storing harvests, which Spanish explorers encountered in 1569.

St. John the Baptist Church was constructed with wood and nipa in 1579 by Franciscan missionaries and later rebuilt using stone and concrete in 1605 (photo: Jayson Nodalo)

One of the five most ancient settlements in Albay (the others being Baligang, Miti, Cotmon, and Quilaponte, now Barangay Bongabong), the village of Tondol can be found in Camalig. Although now merely the name of Purok 3, Sitio Tondol, Barangay Tagaytay, it played a significant part in the Ibalong, the Bikol epic. It was mentioned in the epic to be the site of the kingdom of the first hero of Ibalong, Baltog. Tondol is a testimony to the claims that Camalig already had its own civilization and progressive settlements long before the Spaniards set foot on this land. (reference: Romancing Tondol, Raffi Banzuela)

In 1569, a Spanish expedition dispatched by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi led by Luis Enriquez de Guzman and Augustinian friar Alonso Jimenez first set foot in Albay. They arrived on the coastal settlement called Ibalon in present-day Magallanes, Sorsogon after exploring the islands of Masbate, Ticao and Burias and proceeded inland as far as present-day Camalig, Albay. (reference: History of Albay, Albay.gov.ph) Evangelization was started in 1578 by the Augustinian missionaries. When the Augustinians left, the Franciscan Fathers Pablo de Jesus and Bartolome Ruiz continued their work. In 1579, Camalig was formally inaugurated as a town and as a parish. (reference: History of Camalig, Camalig.gov.ph) St. John the Baptist Church was first constructed in 1605, destroyed during the Mayon Volcano eruption in 1814, and reconstructed in 1845.

Nearby Cagsawa, with its famed church ruins, first began as an outreach village of Camalig before it was transformed into a town in 1605. The Franciscans played a crucial role in spreading Catholicism, establishing missions in nearby towns in Albay and Camarines Sur.

Impact of Mayon Volcano Eruptions

Illustration of the largest historical explosive eruption of Mayon volcano which happened in February 1, 1814 (image: Archivo Franciscano Ibero-Oriental, Madrid)

Camalig has endured multiple eruptions of Mayon Volcano, with the most devastating occurring in 1814, burying nearby Cagsawa and affecting Camalig. About 1200 people perished in Cagsawa. Eruptions of Mayon that affected Camalig and nearby towns as recorded by Philvolcs occurred in 1827, 1845, 1846, 1853, 1871, 1881, 1886, 1892, 1897, 1900, 1938, 1968, 1978, and 1993. These were characterized as vulcanian (at times plinian or strombolian) with pyroclastic flows and some with volcanic bombs, causing ashfall, lahar flows, and destruction of crops, farm lands, livestock, and homes.

Modern day eruptions with violent effects on surrounding towns in varying intensities were recorded in 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009-2010, and 2013-2014. In January 2018, Mayon Volcano underwent a phreatic eruption that produced a significant ash plume, causing ashfall in Camalig and other nearby towns. The eruption also generated rumbling sounds and sulfuric odors in Camalig. In July 2023, pyroclastic flows were generated by lava dome, flow collapses and ashfall. Throughout the history of Camalig and the havoc wreaked by Mayon’s eruptions, volcanic ash has enriched the land, fostering agricultural prosperity.

Culinary Heritage: Pinangat and Cacao

Volcanic soils, like those around Mt. Mayon, are known for their fertility and ability to support diverse crops. The specific soil and environmental conditions around the volcano contribute to the unique quality of the gabi vegetable (taro leaves), the main ingredient used in Camalig, Albay’s famous and distinctive pinangat. The volcanic soil also accounts for the “superb quality” of the coconuts used in the dish, which also grow in the region. Camalig celebrates this culinary tradition with the Pinangat Festival, held annually from June 10 to 24, coinciding with the town fiesta in honor of St. John the Baptist.

Propagating heirloom varieties of cacao from the Spanish era along the fertile foothills of Mayon Volcano, the Muravah Foundation, has provided marginalized people of Camalig access to jobs and stable incomes. Its cacao processing facilities and artisanal chocolate factory in Barangay Sua have helped more than 500 farmers. Income from the sale of its chocolate brand, Mayon Gold, supports farmers, creates sustainable livelihoods, and funds the construction of housing units for beneficiaries. Muravah is supported by Rotary Australia Overseas Aid Fund and its sponsors.

Pili Industry and Local Livelihoods

Camalig is also known for its pili industry, which provides income for farmers and entrepreneurs. The Department of Trade and Industry Region V and the Orgullo kan Bicol (OKB) trade organization have helped develop and train pili nut entrepreneurs, creating value-added products such as pili nut candies as well as pili oil skincare and wellness cosmetics. The industry continues to expand, contributing to the town’s economy.

Camalig is also home to Natural Carpet Industries, one of the largest producers and exporters of finely crafted placemats, carpets, rugs, and living room furniture pieces made from abaca. Owned and operated by the Napa family of Camalig, they are a major supplier of abaca furnishings to Crate and Barrel of the US.

Tourism Sites

Camalig boasts of several natural and historical attractions, including:

Tourist attractions in Camalig (clockwise from top left): Socorro’s Restaurant at Sumlang Lake, Quitinday Hills, Pinangat Festival, and Hoyop-hoyopan Cave)
  • Sumlang Lake – A picturesque lake offering rafting and a stunning view of Mayon Volcano, it is part of a 14-hectare complex, also owned and managed by the Napa family of Natural Carpet Industries. Guests can enjoy a sumptuous meal at Socorro’s Lakeside Restaurant and Grill, then glide on the lake atop a bamboo raft, the perfect place to take that Instagram shot of Mayon. They can then complete their day tour by watching live demos of pinangat cooking and abaca weaving done in nipa-thatched cottages along the walkway from Socorro. Nearby the souvenir shop is stocked with colorful handwoven bags, intricate native baskets, and pili nut delicacies.
  • Quitinday Hills – Often compared to Bohol’s Chocolate Hills, these verdant formations provide breathtaking panoramic views especially of the majestic Mayon Volcano in the background. Also known as Quitinday Green Hills or Pili Nut Hills, the nature park covers around 400 hectares. Geologically, the Quitinday Hills are huge mound of lime deposits. Prehistoric marine fossils can still be found on its slopes.
  • Quituinan Hills – Visitors can have a spectacular view of Mayon Volcano at the wide open spaces of Quituinan Hills, where one can also enjoy kite flying, camping and horseback riding. Remnants of tunnels built by Japanese soldiers during World War II can also be found here and explored for a historical adventure or cave hopping.
  • Hoyop-Hoyopan Cave – The cave is a fascinating natural, historical and archaeological site estimated to be over 3,000 years old. The name “Hoyop-Hoyopan” comes from the local dialect, meaning “blow-blow,” referring to the cool breeze that constantly flows through the cave. This cave has played a significant role in Philippine history, serving as a refuge during World War II and Martial Law, an evacuation center, and even a makeshift hospital. Inside, visitors can marvel at stunning stalactites and stalagmites, sculpted by nature over millennia. The cave is spacious, with high ceilings and multiple chambers, making it an accessible yet adventurous destination.

It is noteworthy to mention about Fr. Cantius Kobak, OFM. During his abbreviated stay in St. John the Baptist Parish (October 18, 1972 to May 6, 1973), the Polish priest and historian explored Hoyop-hoyopan Cave and with the help of his altar boys from church uncovered human skeletal remains, along with their ancient pottery, figurines, and metal implements. With these archaeological finds, he was able to present evidence that the ancient settlers of what is now Camalig had their own burgeoning civilization, possibly hundreds or even thousands of years before the Spaniards set foot on this land. (reference: Amang Dayaday: Archaeological Finds, Raffi Banzuela)

Heritage Houses

Camalig is home to several ancestral houses that reflect its rich history and architectural heritage. Many of these homes date back to the Spanish and American colonial periods, showcasing traditional Filipino design elements such as bahay na bato structures, capiz shell windows, and intricate wooden fretwork. Some notable ancestral houses include:

Heritage houses in Camalig (clockwise from top left): Gonzales, Melba Moya, Nuyda, and Nolasco)
  • The Nolasco House – Built in the early 19th century, this house was once owned by former Mayor Diego Nolasco. It was once used as the town’s temporary municipal hall. The old house is typical of Albay’s bahay na bato typology.
  • The Nuyda House – This house was built in the 19th century by Doroteo Iglesia Moya, Jr., the mayor of Camalig (1877-1878). It is built in the geometric style of bahay na bato. It was owned by Justino Nuyda, a renowned politician and poet.
  • The Gonzales House – Built in 1920, this house is one of the best-preserved in Camalig, featuring ornate iron braces and ventanillas. Designed in the floral style of bahay na bato, it is owned by Ninibeth Gonzales.
  • The Anson House – This home was used by the guardia civil during the Spanish era. It is a bahay na bato originally owned by Toribia Iglesia Moya, bought by the Ansons during the early American period, then by the Valencianos in 1930 and returned to the Ansons in 1980.
  • The Melba Grageda Moyo House – Built in 1932, this house was occupied by high-ranking Japanese officials during World War II. Its exterior is marked by decorated wooden panels (bandejado) which surround its capiz shell windows.
  • The Navera House – Built in 1897, it was damaged by bombing during World War II, but has since been repaired by the subsequent owners.

Camalig has been officially recognized as “The Heritage Town of Albay”, with efforts to preserve its historical structures through heritage walks, conservation programs, and cultural awareness initiatives. While the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) has not declared these houses as heritage sites, the local government has installed markers recognizing them as Albay’s assets and treasures.

Environmental Challenges: Illegal Quarrying

Despite its natural beauty, Camalig faces environmental threats due to illegal limestone quarrying. Historian, author and environment advocate Raffi Banzuela has publicly expressed his vehement opposition to the lime quarrying which will lead to the destruction of Quitinday Green Hills and numerous caves in the area. He also fears that quarrying will also destroy the popular subterranean rivers of the nearby town of Jovellar. The limestone quarry company in Barangay Palanog, Camalig has rendered the place no longer habitable with so much pollution; the people of Palanog remain poor, many displaced, despite promises of prosperity. He hopes that the laws that protect the mountains and eco-cultural-tourism-archaeological treasures of Camalig shall be enforced.

Conclusion

Camalig, Albay, is a town shaped by its history, faith, and natural resources. From its prehistoric settlements to its colonial heritage, from its culinary traditions to its agricultural industries, Camalig continues to thrive despite challenges. As it preserves its cultural identity and natural beauty, the town remains a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of its people.

Commemorative Book

Commemorative Book

On June 22, 2025, in celebration of Camalig’s Town Fiesta and the 420th Anniversary of the Reconstruction of the St. John the Baptist Parish Church, a commemorative book FOUNDED ON FAITH, BUILT IN STONE will be launched. Proceeds from the book sale and ad placements shall benefit the Parish and help fund church and convent restoration costs.

The header features a view of Camalig town, circa 2012, along the national highway southbound with Mayon Volcano looming in the background (credit: Jayson Nodalo). This article was written by Jojo De Jesus for Dateline Ibalon using various references, including: Camalig,gov.ph, Albay.gov.ph, Philvolcs DOST, National Museum Bicol, and historical accounts by Raffi Banzuela, noted historical and cultural advocate of Camalig.

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