For over two decades, Soledad “Choleng” Dato Hidalgo chronicled the Peñafrancia Fiesta in Naga City, Camarines Sur, capturing every fascinating detail of Bicolandia’s most important religious celebration. Year after year, without fail, she documented the many facets of this event, delving into its rich history, its spiritual significance, and even the controversies surrounding it. Her writings explored everything from the Fiesta’s origins to the ecclesiastical players and benefactors who contributed to its growth, right down to the mysteries surrounding the crown jewels of the Virgin of Peñafrancia.

Choleng vividly described the local traditions, from the start of the nine-day Novena and the Traslacion to the grand military and civic parades that precede the culminating fluvial procession. The masses move in unison, driven by a mysterious energy that fuses the spiritual with the frenzied, as faith and tradition combine in a force that can only be described as electrifying. Over the years, Choleng witnessed how these patterns changed with the times, how newer generations added their mark, yet the essence of the Peñafrancia Fiesta remained.

Weeks before September, the Nagueño people prepare their homes and kitchens for the influx of visitors, stocking up on local delicacies. Hospitality flows naturally as they open their doors to friends, relatives, and even strangers who wander the streets, joining in the festivities and savoring a day of celebration. These are the stories that Choleng told, layered with twists and turns, offering a glimpse of a culture rooted in faith and community. Despite the changes, the heart of the Bicolano remains constant, steadfast, and resilient

The First Benefactors and the Crown Jewels

One of the most captivating stories Choleng uncovered involved the Basilica Minore, a grandiose structure that was the dream of Archbishop Teopisto V. Alberto and brought to life by Bishop Sofio G. Balce. According to the history penned by Mons. Florencio C. Yllana, as documented in the novena to the Virgen of Peñafrancia, as well as in a treatise by Jose Barrameda, which includes a translation of the writings of Bishop Francisco C. Gainza, who was able to record the events in the Bicol language, the history of Peñafrancia is filled with miracles and devout benefactors.  Simon Vela, for example, embarked on a quest for the image of Peña de Francia, while Fr. Miguel Robles de Covarrubias built the first Ermita, the foundation of what is now the old Peñafrancia Shrine.

Among the numerous miraculous tales, one of the most famous is that of a dog, whose blood was used to stain the face of the Virgin’s image. The dog was later resurrected and swam across the river – an act that remains one of the festival’s most retold legends. Yet, Father Miguel failed to document the name of the artist who carved the image of the Virgin, leaving an enduring mystery.

The Crown Jewels: A Gift for the Ages

Choleng also revealed a more modern tale of intrigue surrounding the crown jewels of the Virgin of Peñafrancia, which were donated by Doña Aleja de la Paz Cecilio in 1890 to Bishop Jorge I. Barlin, the first Filipino bishop. While some family members attempted to reclaim the jewels as family heirlooms, it was finally decided that they would remain in the Church’s possession, safeguarded in a bank vault. These jewels, sometimes displayed on special occasions, became the subject of Choleng’s investigative piece in 1982, sparking a stir in the community. In her writings, she connected the dots between oral tradition, history, and the preservation of these sacred symbols.

A Return to Tradition

Choleng’s chronicles reflect not only the traditions of the Peñafrancia Fiesta but also the broader cultural shifts of the region. Even as times change, and newer generations put their stamp on the celebrations, the heart of Bicolandia remains unchanged—a steadfast devotion to the Virgin of Peñafrancia and an unwavering sense of community. As Choleng once wrote, “The more things change, the more they stay the same.”

This article was edited by Raul F. Borjal.