Prologue

“Do you want to do the Camino?” one of my closest friends and travel buddy Vanessa asked me one November afternoon in 2022.   

I had read about this famous pilgrimage when I was still in college, but embarking on it never crossed my mind, given the long, arduous and rough circumstances it involved. Nevertheless, I gave Van an indefinite answer.  For the next several weeks, however, the thought of the Camino continued to brew in my mind, albeit with a whole lot of self-doubt. Am I fit enough? Can I truly rough it?  What if I get lost in the middle of nowhere? How will I survive? 

 A month later, Van sent me a link to the Emilio Estevez/Martin Sheen movie, “The Way” which opened my eyes to the fact that the Camino is not just about walking towards the tomb of St. James but is also about bringing purpose and meaning to one’s existence. It was around this time too that I had been feeling depressed and drained from fright and worry because of the 3-year pandemic, and the film’s message challenged and galvanized me to take courage and conquer fear. I wanted to show myself I was strong! Thus, the call of the Camino became loud and clear: I must do it. I was also inspired by the movie’s lead character who intended to finish the Camino for his son who perished.  In my case, I wanted to honor my parents while they were still alive. 

It was one of those decisions that I knew was by and for God because it gave me serenity when I slept and peace when I woke up. In the meantime, Van had been skillfully organizing and planning our route and logistics, and I was more than happy to go with her flow. Our Camino would be a mix of the Coastal, Central and Espiritual Variante routes of the Camino Portugues. I owed her immensely for giving me this opportunity and making everything possible.

I was happy that our starting point would be in Portugal since it was a country we loved and the option of a 2-week Camino from Porto was ideal. The various preparations we made in the succeeding months were part of the adventure – trying out various brands of trail shoes, fitting backpacks that were ergonomic and had the right volume, testing quick-dry apparel, canvassing electronic devices, even searching for that essential hair and body wash. Practice walks with weighted backpacks were a must to condition our bodies.  I also started to read up about St. James’ life and I felt the relevance of being able to visit his resting place. This was going to be a trip where the journey and the destination were equally important. However, when we had a few weeks left to go, Vanessa and I started having mixed emotions of excitement and trepidation. But trust in God we did for our first (but definitely not the last) Camino.

Camino Day 1 & 2: 7 & 8 September 2023 

Porto-Matosinhos-Labruge, 16 km and Labruge-Vila do Conde-Rates, 18 km

We commenced in the Porto Cathedral, the official starting point of the Camino in Porto, then we set off to Matosinhos where the Coastal Route of the Camino Portugues began. We were walking alongside the Atlantic Ocean for about 30 km with no shade, relying on the motions of clouds to intermittently cover the sun. To our left were unobstructed views of the ocean. To our right were fishing villages, residential villages, sand dunes or an expanse of biodiverse landscapes. By the second half of Day 2, we reached Vila do Conde, where the great ships of the Age of Exploration were built. From there, we switched to the Central Route, which took us more inland, and were met with vast fields of corn, mini-vineyards and town chapels. For our Day 2 accommodation, we stayed in Portugal’s very first albergue, Albergue de Peregrinos de Sao Pedro de Rates, where we got to meet and talk to more peregrinos (pilgrims).  Staying there was an exercise in going outside the comfort zone, but we did it to experience a municipal albergue in our Camino.

Camino Day 3 & 4: 9 & 10 September 2023

Rates-Pereira-Barcelinhos-Barcelos, 17.5 km and Barcelos-Balugaes-Lugar do Corgo, 20 km

Upon leaving our accommodation early in the morning of Day 3, we were instantly greeted with a magnificent view of the sunrise over cornfields and a crisp morning chill to wake us up. The Central Route was well waymarked so there is less need to check the map for directions. Our path for Days 3 and 4 consisted of eucalyptus and pine woodlands, earth tracks, highways, bridges and more cobblestones, cornfields and vineyards. We could hear church bells ringing from a distance. Day 3’s stop (Barcelos) was a town known for its medieval tower, bridge and remnants of the earl’s castle. 

Places for food and rest were few and far in between and I began to feel the toll of the Camino.  Though I entertained myself with the various kinds of flowers, fruit trees and vegetable plants and the different aromas of the eucalyptus, the soil, the food whilst in towns, the weight of our backpacks and the long stretches of road with no stops definitely tested my physical and mental stamina. My hips, legs and feet ached and, although I know I was not quitting, my willpower needed refueling as my mind would linger on the seemingly endless paths. My family texted me their words of support and encouragement.  I also kept praying to my Guardian Angel to help carry my load and to alleviate the body aches.  As if on cue, while in the middle of the woodlands, we started hearing angelic voices of a church choir, prompting me to stop and listen- lifting up my spirits. 

Our Day 4 accommodation is at the popular Casa Fernanda, where Fernanda and Jacinto (wife and husband) welcomed 15 guests into their home with meals, wine and songs. Fernanda assigned me and Van the only private room and bath, much to our surprise and delight as it was what we absolutely needed in our knackered state. After our delicious dinner, we all partook of port wine, singing and dancing. The merrymaking refreshed our tired and weary bodies.

As the saying goes, “The Camino provides.” Truly, God will give you what you need.  As Fernanda reminded us, He is everywhere.

Camino Day 5: 11 September 2023

Lugar do Corgo-Facha-Seara-Ponte de Lima, 16 km

An uphill walk through mountains awaited us today.  At one point, we missed an arrow while reading our daily prayer. Fortunately, a fellow pilgrim saw us from afar, shouted and signaled to us the right direction. Since Day 1, someone was always there to help. Whenever Van and I would pause and look at our maps, a local would stop his car to point us to the right direction. An elderly woman handed us freshly picked apples from her harvest and they were of the sweetest kind. The Camino will show you the way through these angels.

Our path was mostly of rough roads or paved roads through meadows and towns. With the main road for this stage being the Rua de Caminho de Santiago, there were more images (stone or tile) of St. James, more rest and water stops along the way. Hence, we were not as exhausted as the day before.

Our stop for the day was in Ponte de Lima where festivities were going on. This town was able to preserve much of its medieval heritage, and to catch it on the last day of its fiesta made for a lively end to our day.

Camino Day 6: 12 September 2023

Ponte de Lima-Labruja-Sao Roque-Rubiaes, 20 km

Since we were up in the valley, we were greeted with a sea of fog as we left our accommodation in the morning. On the way out of Ponte de Lima, we stopped by a craft store where, on display, were various colorful Camino memorabilia. The wood smith who owned it asked us to write “Bom Caminho” in Filipino so he can add it to his board of flags and translations.  Van and I were pilgrims number 11,327 and 11,328 since he opened shop a more than a year ago. Before a pilgrim left his store, he would ring a bell ceremoniously to signal that a pilgrim passed by.

Today’s path started out in meadows then we passed through a highway underpass to reach the entrance to the mountains, valleys and forests of Labruja.  Climbing up to an elevation of 400 m. through big rocks and stones was a challenge that made us grateful for our walking poles and trail running shoes. In the middle of the path high up the mountain was a makeshift fountain from which flowed the coolest, most refreshing mountain water I’ve ever drunk. Nature can treat you tough but has a way of rewarding you as well.

Camino Day 7 & 8: 13 & 14 September 2023

Rubiaes-Valença-Tui, 22 km and Rest Day between Tui-Valença-Tui, 11.2 km

I didn’t get much sleep the night before and woke up with a frozen lower back which slowed down my pace significantly and dampened my mood. I walked most of the way in solitude that gave me much time to talk to God. I realized that I have never had this much time, hours, that is, in silent prayer without rushing or worrying about work/tasks to complete. Being mindful of each step and listening to the beautiful sounds of nature were forms of prayerful meditation in themselves.

We reached the border of Portugal at the town of Valença and it saddened me so to bid the Portuguese countryside goodbye. As I stood at the border’s signage, I was literally leaving my favorite country behind.

After crossing the 1-km. long bridge between Portugal and Spain, we arrived in Tui where we spent a full day’s break before walking our last 100 km to Santiago. Most of our fellow pilgrim friends who started in Porto went ahead of us. I sincerely hoped we will see them again someday. 

Both Tui and Valenća were fortress cities dating back to the 16th century (walking around there made visible Intramuros’ Spanish heritage) and royalties then would make a stop in either city on their way to Santiago. Both cities had torres (towers) offering spectacular views of the other country across the Rio Minho, as well as a cathedral and several chapels abound. On Day 8 (rest day), Van and I had lunch in Portugal then dinner in Spain.

Camino Day 9 & 10: 15 & 16 September 2023

Tui-O Porriño, 18 km and O Porriño-Mos-Redondela, 16 km

Much recharged after our 1 day break and with my backpack a kilo lighter after removing several unused items, we resumed our walk before sunrise. It was the start of the Spanish part of our Camino, and, as expected, there were more pilgrims since Tui is a popular starting point for peregrinos. As such, there was a Guardia Civil (police) greeting pilgrims at the entry of the main path of the Camino.

We had 2 short walks for both days (16-18 km only), arriving at each accommodation at 1pm. My body had adapted to the pace of the Camino- I have not felt any neck, shoulder, back or leg pain since Day 8 or 9, except for a new pain on my heel since I changed trail shoes.  O Porriño is an industrial city but pilgrims were offered a path through tranquil forests and rivers. For dinner, friends from Quebec and Georgia, USA invited us and from them I discovered Padron peppers, which was muy deliciosa.

Day 10 to Redondela was another ascent (lower at 330 m.) but it wasn’t as difficult as the climb on the way to Rubiaes. However, the descent was very steep, which was tough on my bruised left knee (I tripped and scraped it when we arrived in Valencia on Day 7). Before the point of descent, however, was a beautiful view of the town of Casal do Monte. On our way down was a sign marking the Miliario Romana, which was the original pilgrim’s path. Our stop for the day was Redondela, a small municipality whose parish was dedicated to St. James. Van and I heard anticipated mass there and retired early for the evening as we’ll be covering a longer distance tomorrow.

Camino Day 11: 17 September 2023

Redondela-Pontevedra, 20 km

Just when I thought my body had adjusted to the rigors of the Camino, the hike through several uphill and downhill paths today burned my thighs and heels. Maybe God was telling me, “You think you had it good, huh?” and reminding me to offer these discomforts for my loved ones. We took the riverside route which, though more scenic than the streetside route, felt never-ending and again required me to focus my thoughts on presence and mindfulness. We had our first taste of rain in the Camino on Day 11 and I was finally able to use the weighty 500 g. poncho I’ve been lugging around. As they warned us, the weather was unpredictable in the region of Galicia. Our stop was in Pontevedra, whose Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina, the edifice of which is shaped like a scallop, is considered to be one of the great treasures of the Camino. Nearby was the Convent of St. Francis where we heard Sunday mass again.

Camino Day 12: 18 September 2023

Pontevedra-Combarro-Armenteira, 21.3 km

The number of days left were getting fewer, but the distances we were covering per day were getting longer. Yet, I did not want our Camino to end.  Pangs of nostalgia were already kicking in as we neared Santiago.

There were even more peregrinos this rainy morning as we exited Pontevedra, such that the noise on the path (something mundane to me back in Manila) felt new. After a few kilometers on the Central path, we started the Variante Espiritual route, which follows the path of the unmanned ship carrying St. James’ body (which his Spanish disciples stole from King Agrippa), guided only by angels and a star, to what is now the village of Padron.

Today, we covered the 1st of 3 stages of this route. We encountered varied landscapes, trekked on city roads, countryside roads, an estuary, and meandered through the winding, hilly old town of Combarro where we refueled before the long climb up Monte Redondo.  With a total altitude of 455 m., it was the steepest and most arduous 10 km of my life!  Though majority of the path was paved, a significant section was either bouldered, craggy or rocky.  In some parts, we were slogging through narrow soil paths in the wilderness.  My key to powering through this climb? Praying the Hail Mary each uphill step of the way.

Camino Day 13: 19 September 2023

Armenteira-Puente Arnelas-Vilanova do Arousa, 23 km

We embarked on the 2nd of 3 stages of the Variante Espiritual, the “Route of Stone and Water”, where we followed the path of a river down the hill with ancient water mills dotting the trail.  It was a mystical path for me through lush vegetation, and the sound of streaming water and the ruffling of leaves were music to my ears.  I took a moment to let negative feelings and thoughts flow out of me so I can savor the tranquility.

Proceeding from the woods were fields and hills at which time I had a lengthy chat with Teresa, a Dutch woman, who had just quit her job after turning 50. The Camino was, for her, the beginning of a new chapter.

The last stretch of the day was along the coast, a 3 km walk along the estuary and the beach leading to our stop, Vilanova de Arousa. For dinner, Van and I finally had paella (arroz marisco), which turned out to be a humongous serving for 2!  We could only eat 1/3 of it so we shared it with the other pilgrims seated near our table. Then they started offering their own food to us. Then the Belgian pilgrim, Dominique, said it was her birthday. Then we started singing happy birthday for her. We spontaneously had an impromptu party to end the evening in this small coastal town.

Camino Day 14:  20 September 2023

Vilanova do Arousa-Pontecesures-Padron-Vilar, 20 km by boat and 10 km on foot

The 3rd and final stage of the Variante Espiritual was a boat ride of 20 km on the Bay of Arousa up to the Ulla River. This stage followed the route that the unmanned boat carrying St. James’ body sailed in until it docked in Iria Flavia, Padron. However, it must be noted that St. James first arrived in Spain alive, not dead. And that was what we commemorated in this last stage. Our boat docked in Pontecesures then we walked 2.5 km to Padron. We first visited the Iglesia de Santiago, where the original stone bollard that secured St. James’ boat Padron is found (below the main altar). After, we went up Monte Santiaguiño through the steep 0.5 km Escaleras or steps. Up in the mount was the site where St. James started his ministry in the Iberian Peninsula in 40 A.D. The site was marked with a cross (and the apostle’s stone image) surrounded by 10 giant rocks, which, popular tradition said, the apostle used to escape his pursuers. It was easy to envisage St. James standing in this remote and peaceful place, delivering Christ’s message of unconditional love and forgiveness.

A few meters away was a fountain, marking the cave where St. James hid. According to tradition, water miraculously flowed from the rocks after the saint tapped it 3 times for a thirsty pilgrim. We drank from the fountain and collected a small amount in a bottle.

Spiritually invigorated, we headed down the city center and partook of my newfound favorite Padron peppers in the city it originated from, of course.

We ended our day in Vilar, a 5 km. walk from Padron, at a 250 year old home that used to be a winery. It was a chilly evening but cozy with the accommodations’ communal dinner for pilgrims.

18 more kilometers to go before Santiago… I’m not ready to see the end of this journey.

Camino Day 15: 21 September 2023

Vilar-Faramello-Santiago de Compostela, 20km

After 288 kilometers, we reached Santiago. I am at a loss for words.  Our Camino has ended… but this is only just the beginning.   

Thank you San Tiago! To God be the glory!

Epilogue

It has been 4 weeks since we completed our Camino. I remember that day like it was yesterday.  Throughout the morning of, I saw a total of 3 rainbows, which to me was auspicious because they never appeared since our commencement. My mom then texted, “It’s God’s manifestation of how pleased He is of your sacrifices and perseverance”, which tugged at my heart and moved me to tears, the first of many that day. As we trekked the last 20 kms., I breathed in as much of the scenery and scents of the hills and towns of the countryside and savored each of those final 30,000+ steps. I was going to miss all these, especially those moments when the silence was interrupted by the toll of the church bells or the heavenly voices of a choir from afar.

From a hill less than 10 km away, we spotted the towers of the Catedral de Santiago, and tears uncontrollably streamed down my face.  I couldn’t believe it was so near. I was excited to accomplish the goal, but I was reluctant to leave the Camino behind. At 8km, I started doing a virtual countdown with my family, sending them pictures of the waymarkers every kilometer until we reached the cathedral.  My dream is to do the Camino with my family, so for this primero, I wanted them to at least be with me, albeit virtually, until I reached Santiago.  Their messages and pictures cheering us on proved heartening.

As Van and I entered the old town of Santiago (at the heart of which is the cathedral), it started raining quite heavily so we sought shelter – somewhat anticlimactic as the cathedral was so near. When the rains started to weaken we made our way through the alley that finally led us to the Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the Catedral. That moment we stepped foot in the plaza to behold the cathedral, the sun came out as though to bless us on our arrival. Of course, Van and I were crying, as we stood in awe.  Being there was incredible, surreal… and humbling. What did I do to deserve this grace? I certainly could not do it without the Lord, Mama Mary, my guardian angel and most of all, St. James. I imagined the millions of pilgrims since the Middle Ages who have gone on this journey and stood on the very same spot as us.  It was an honor to follow in their footsteps.

Truly, the spirit of the Camino transforms you. One of the best tips I got was  “Don’t pack fear and vanity!” – it became my motto when deciding on a physical or mental cargo– and I quickly learned that all my worries about this trip were unfounded because God will show you the way (not just thru the yellow arrows). I learned tolerance and acceptance. I learned that letting go and giving in does not diminish the self and allows God to fill you instead. I learned that I am stronger than I thought I ever was. The whole walk was certainly arduous and punishing, but the gifts the Camino brings far outweigh the suffering. 

I miss the daily routine and the simplicity of the Camino life. I miss the intrinsic camaraderie between peregrinos and the kindness of strangers. I miss the freedom of the open road, the dedicated time for detachment from work. I yearn for the tranquility of nature, for the recalibrating effect it gives to my mind and soul. I yearn for that fullness of being present with God again. I did the Camino to honor my parents, and because I had been living in fear these past 3 years, I needed to encounter God.  Spending time with Him and gaining that profound “spiritual experience of deep listening to God within me” (as my friend Sister Edith puts it) was absolutely fortifying and fulfilling. Because of this, I received what I was seeking: faith, peace and courage. 

Buen Camino!