Sarah Gillespie, a travel and lifestyle British-Filipina journalist based in Glasgow, Scotland, writes about her recent exploration of Albay. Her works have appeared in The Times (UK), South China Morning Post (Hong Kong), and National Geographic Traveller (UK), among others. Having a Filipino mum whom she cherishes dearly, she embraces her Philippine roots and has in fact taken it to heart by learning to speak fluent Hiligaynon.
In her travel article for the South China Morning Post, Sarah recounts her flight into Pili Airport where she is met by her tour guide, Liezel Mascariñas, from the Bicol Department of Tourism. They travel south bound for Albay.
Her Bicol exploration begins at Casa Simeon, a historical landmark in Bacacay, Albay. Built by the late Simeon and Beatrice Alparce in the 1920’s, the ancestral home features colonial Spanish and American architecture and interior stylings. Meticulously converted to a restaurant with hotel-grade guest rooms, visitors can sample heirloom recipes and enjoy home style dining experience amid vintage furniture, books and fixtures collected by the family through the years. The reception, library, dining area, and veranda with a view of Mayon Volcano are parts of the original house, which was expanded to include spacious guest rooms complete with modern conveniences.
From Bacacay to Camalig, less than an hour drive, Sarah and Liezel pull in to picturesque Sumlang Lake which boasts a stunning view of Mayon Volcano. A popular tourist destination, the 14-hectare complex is managed by the Napa family, owners of Natural Carpet Industries, one of the largest producers and exporters of abaca products. Guests can enjoy a sumptuous meal at Socorro’s Lakeside Restaurant and Grill, then glide on to the middle of the lake atop a bamboo raft, the perfect place to take that Instagram shot of Mayon. They can then complete their Sumlang Lake day tour by watching live demos of pinangat cooking and abaca weaving done in nipa-thatched cottages along the walkway from Socorro. Nearby the souvenir shop is stocked with colorful handwoven bags, intricate native baskets, and pili nut delicacies.
Next stop is 1st Colonial Grill where Sarah gets to try the fiery Bicol Express and their signature spicy Sili Ice Cream. The original restaurant was established in 2004 at a building constructed during the American colonial era – thus the choice of the name 1st Colonial as the old structure it was in evoked memories of the bygone era. Owners Elmer Boy Aspe and Dr. Rowena Aspe seek to immortalize their parents’ recipes and honor their culinary heritage in their popular menus. They have expanded to dine-in locations in Daraga, Legazpi, Naga, Sorsogon and Metro Manila, where their authentic Bicolano dishes and flavorful Sili Ice Cream are also widely available online for pick up or delivery.
Sarah winds down her Bicol tour by sampling local beers served at Oragon Craft Brewhouse. Started during the pandemic by hotel and restaurant entrepreneur Rico Calleja, the micro-brewery offers dark and bold stout, golden Indian pale ale, amber colored pale ale and blonde cream ale. His craft beer is brewed in-premises at the ground floor of P&B Residences in University Village, Rawis, Legazpi City.
Sarah muses about her Bicol experience, “Why is Bicolano food spicy? I know this, now – but I still cannot shake the idea that it is a metaphor for warmth. Of weather, yes – but also of people, and of the welcome you will get if you are ever fortunate enough to visit.”
Click the link below to read Sarah Gillespie’s travel and leisure article in the South China Morning Post lifestyle section entitled “Spicy food in the Philippines? Yes, in Bicol, where you can even find fiery ice cream”
About the author: SARAH GILLESPIE writes for The Times (UK), South China Morning Post (Hong Kong), and National Geographic Traveller (UK), among others. Learn more….