“We did it”! These are the words that came rushing into my mind, but then again this is not a race for me to win. I did it because I want to reconnect with my faith. This is a spiritual journey for me. “MY WAY” is the way I was led on, and not anyone else’s.
Almost two years ago we passed through Santiago de Compostela when we joined a bus/land tour pilgrimage from Lisbon, Portugal through Lourdes, France and into Barcelona, Spain. On our way to attend the mass in SDC we wondered why so many people are walking with backpacks, some wearing knee braces, while others are limping with their blistered feet and slowly walking towards Santiago de Compostela. Our tour director explained that they are called “pilgrims” and Santiago de Compostela which is their destination, is the third holiest place in the world. Every year, thousands of pilgrims coming from different routes converge in Santiago de Compostela where the bones of Saint James, one of the Twelve Apostles of Our Lord Jesus Christ, were found.
Currently, there are 12 established Caminos de Santiago. We took the Camino Frances, the most popular and established route, starting from St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago, Spain with its 813 kms total distance.
Immediately after we came back from our land tour pilgrimage, I researched this phenomenon that truly touched my heart and soul by reading books and learning more about the story of Saint James and the pilgrims. I watched videos of pilgrims who did it and the movie called “THE WAY” by Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez. I was so inspired and finally decided to be a pilgrim.
Together with my wife and grandson, on June 7, 2017, we flew to Barcelona, Spain took the train to Pamplona, and boarded a bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port, France, where we commenced our walk the following day. On the eve of our departure, we attended the Pilgrims’ Mass at 7:00 pm. Right after the Mass, the priest called the pilgrims to gather around the altar where he gave us a short message of congratulations, encouragement, hope and inspiration. Thanking God for this wonderful opportunity, he imparted his blessings to us invoking Him to guide our steps, and protecting us along the way until we reach our destination. Fully energized and focused we started our journey on June 8, carrying our backpacks with our basic necessities for the entire 40-day pilgrimage.
Coming out of Saint Jean Pied de Port to climb the Pyrenees mountain is the toughest one of all but the most rewarding. The mountain’s breathtaking scenic surroundings and majestic beauty are worth all the struggles. The Orisson village which is our first stop is an 8-kilometer walk with an elevation of 857 meters (2,571 ft.). The second day is a continuation of our Pyrenees climb where we walked for another 10 kilometers to the peak of Col de Lepoeder, an elevation of 1,450 meters (4,350 ft). It took us two days to do the entire Pyrenees climb which is a struggle. It was hot and bright on the first day but on the next day, the thick fog greeted us in the morning with just 10 feet visibility of the surroundings and lifted around noon.
After the first two days, we simply had the same redundant trails going from Pamplona to Logrono with its uphills and downhills varying from asphalt to dirt roads which sometimes are filled with rocks, stones and pebbles. Whether it’s a city, town or a village, the Church or a Chapel is usually the welcoming sight along the way. When it is open we often light a candle, say a prayer, and/or have our credential stamped.
The next phase of our pilgrimage took us through the city of Burgos to Astorga. This stretch is called ‘Meseta’ where the trails are long, flat as far as your eyes can see and hot where the temperature reaches 100 degrees. To avoid the sweltering heat, we normally leave a little bit earlier in the morning to reach our destination before noon. Reservation of our albergue for the following morning is a great idea since we are assured of a bed when we get there.
From Astorga we headed towards climbing the highest point of the entire route, a 1,515 -meter height (4,545 ft.) ascent with its unpredictable weather. By the time we left El Ganso towards Foncebadon the weather had deteriorated to rain and cold 30 mph howling wind.
We spent the night in Foncebadon and left very early in the morning to reach “Cruz de Ferro” where we said our prayers for all of mankind especially for our family and friends. At the beginning of our climb, it was foggy and cold but by the time we started to descend the fog lifted and once again the view at the top of the mountain was stunning. As we descended from the mountain going to Molinaseca the trail was terribly rough and bumpy. It was abundantly covered with boulders and rocks which we have to endure for several days.
As we reached Sarria, the last 100 kilometers to Santiago, the increase in the number of pilgrims on the trail is quite noticeable. Sixty percent of pilgrims starts at Sarria. A pilgrim must walk the last 100 kilometers if his intention is to receive a certificate of completion of the Camino. With the influx of pilgrims, the mood changes into a vibrant and accelerating tempo. Everyone is excited to reach the final destination, Santiago de Compostela. Overcoming the big climbs, we still have to pass through woodlands, farmlands and city streets as we get near Santiago.
We stayed in Monte de Gozo, a 4-kilometer hike before we reach the city. We want to get there early in the morning to greet our pilgrim friends, get our certificates and attend the Pilgrims’ Mass at the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.
As we approach the Cathedral we can hear children, various high school groups, and friends singing and chanting. Everyone arriving from various routes gather in front of the Cathedral hugging each other, singing, or even crying. It was a wonderful indescribable feeling.
As I have experienced this journey I truly understand that this is a simple story. Nevertheless, everything that I’ve done and saw and the people I’ve met from various countries (France, Germany, Netherlands, Japan, South Korea, United Kingdom, Mexico, etc.) all have their own life stories and lessons that can be applied in our lives.
“Buen camino” is a greeting of encouragement you will hear from local town folks or from fellow pilgrims to urge you to go forward to the path to Santiago. I truly miss the friendly greetings, my early morning walks and cape con leche.
BUEN CAMINO! All thanksgiving and glory be to God as He bless our journeys …