Why do I love cruising? How do I prepare not knowing what awaits me at our destination? Where do I get the patience when, at times, I find myself and my wife running full tilt to catch a connecting flight? What are the benefits of cruising?
These questions were foremost in my mind when my wife and I embarked on a 12-day ocean cruise to Greece last October aboard Viking Vela, a new cruise ship from Viking Ocean Cruises launched in 2024. It can accommodate 998 passengers and showcase a Scandinavian-inspired design and offer amenities such as lounges and multiple dining options.
Joining us were my sister-in-law and her hubby. I had thought that their company would make our cruise more enjoyable and memorable – and true enough, that’s exactly what happened.
Admittedly, even though my wife and I have embraced international travel since 2006, with river and ocean cruising taking us to more than 40 European cities through the years, I continue to find that when cruising there is always something new to learn – beyond simply appreciating the richness of cultures distinct from my own.
Just thinking about cruising to Greece rekindled memories of my college days at the Ateneo de Manila as a philosophy major engaged in classical studies. Names of Plato, Aristotle and Socrates, along with Homer’s The Iliad and The Odyssey, flashed through my imagination. The Greek pursuit of reason, governance, and ethics filled me with anticipation, knowing that I will soon walk the land where western civilization itself began. How could anyone not feel excited?
Of course, I was excited. A week before our departure, I had already packed my clothes, walking shoes, medicine, and even my kneepad – something I thought I might need for those long walks. Packing early has become my little ritual whenever we travel, so much so that it’s now a running family joke.
The flight from Las Vegas to New York was smooth. But our connecting flight from New York to Greece was delayed by almost three hours due to a mechanical problem. The thought of flying on an aircraft that has experienced a mechanical problem, even one that has been fully repaired, can cause anxiety. I felt a sense of unease. But thank God nothing untoward happened during our 9-hour flight to Athens.
While Athens (Piraeus), Volos, Thessaloniki, Ephesus (Turkey), Rhodes, Santorini, Crete, Nafplio are beautiful, it is not just their natural beauty that lingers in my memory. Rather, there are four takeaways from our cruise that stand out because of their deeper significance and the profound meaning they carry:
- The power of graffiti as a voice of protest.
- The sacrifice of Filipino seafarers to support their loved ones back home.
- The historical significance of the ancient city of Ephesus.
- The spiritual significance of the House of the Virgin Mary.
Graffiti As a Voice of Protest
It was not hard to conclude that graffiti, not only in Athens but in almost all the cities that we visited, is the people’s way of expressing their social and political concerns. They serve as a way for young graffiti artists to communicate and air their views on issues that matter to the people.
During the short drive from the Athens airport to Piraeus, where Viking Vela, which would be our “floating home” for the next 12 days, was docked, I thought we would pass by an acropolis. Instead, what I saw were colorful graffities written on walls, bridges, abandoned buildings, and almost in every neighborhood. I did not understand many of them because they were written in Greek. But some were written in English like, “Free Palestine” and “Liberate Gaza.”
One of our tour guides explained to me during our break that graffiti is illegal in Greece, but the police cannot strictly enforce the law because they often have more important issues, like crimes, to focus on. Besides, people are understandably more tolerant of graffiti.
Because of my ignorance, I used to believe that graffiti was nothing more than a gang-related artwork, a form of vandalism to express disdain for society. To me, graffiti looked like dirt – just another piece of garbage on the walls. But what I witnessed in Greece completely changed my perspective. In many Greek cities we visited, graffiti is not a mark of destruction but a powerful art form of expression. When used thoughtfully, it becomes a potent tool for social and political change, giving a voice to those who are often ignored by society.
Filipino Seafarer’s Sacrifice
On our previous Mediterranean cruise aboard Norwegian Escape in 2024, I noticed that a significant number of the crew came from developing countries, particularly the Philippines. In fact, I was told by one of the crew members that Filipinos comprised 60 percent of the ship’s 2,000-member staff. Many served as waiters, cooks, bartenders, cabin stewards, entertainers, etc. while others held administrative and managerial positions – a clear testament to their skill and dedication when given the opportunity.
Just as Filipino workers contributed significantly to Norwegian Escape’s operations, so too were the Filipino crew in Viking Vela, whose contributions kept the cruise ship running smoothly. However, the reality of their working conditions was undeniably disturbing.
Several individuals privately shared with me that although their compensation is considered competitive, they are required to work ten hours a day, seven days a week. For many, the prolonged separation from their loved ones throughout the duration of their contracts proves to be particularly challenging.
Mothers, with children residing in their home countries, experience profound longing for their loved ones. The separation from family exerts a significant emotional toll, as the sense of homesickness frequently gives rise to feelings of loneliness.
What unites the stories of many crew members is their steadfast determination to withstand hardships to provide for their families back home.
This enduring narrative of the Filipino diaspora will continue to exert influence on the lives of many Filipinos until poverty is effectively alleviated, a condition prolonged by governmental inefficiency and systemic corruption.
Ancient City of Ephesus
It was a hot and sultry day when we were in Ephesus, but I did not mind the heat even if I forgot to bring a bottle of water to quench my thirst. Walking among the ruins of Ephesus was to experience past civilization, where marble streets and towering columns were something to behold, as our tour guide provided a lucid account of past commercial activities, demonstrating his impeccable command of historical knowledge.
Ephesus is a well-preserved ruin of a city that tourists visit because it offers a glimpse into ancient Roman and Greek city life. As we continued our walk and intermittently (since I was busy taking pictures) listened to our tour guide, I gradually came to appreciate the sophistication of its infrastructure.
Ephesus is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It serves as a center of numerous architectural marvels that continue to attract visitors from around the world. The Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, is one of them. It was only upon noticing the multitude of tourists lifting their cameras to photograph the temple that I realized I was already standing before it. I took a few photos of the temple for posterity.
Two other key attractions that we saw walking along the marble streets were the ruins of the Library of Celsus and the Great Theater.
It is believed that the Library of Celsus could hold an estimated 12,000 manuscripts, and the Great Theater could hold 25,000 spectators. The theater played an important role in the social life of Ephesus.
Indeed, to wander through these very same marble streets where St. Paul and even Cleopatra walked amidst the ruins of Ephesus constituted a profound encounter with the enduring legacy of one of humanity’s greatest civilizations that once shaped the world.
The House of the Virgin Mary
Many years ago, I received a book that described the house in which Mama Mary spent her final days on earth. At that time, I promised myself I would visit her house someday. I never truly believed it would happen. Last November, that long-cherished aspiration was at last realized.
The house is on top of a hill near Ephesus in modern-day Turkey. It’s a small stone house where many believe Mama Mary spent the remainder of her life on earth. Inside is a dark chapel with lit candles and a small statue of Mama Mary. No photos are allowed inside.
According to our tour guide, tradition holds that after the crucifixion of Christ, Mama Mary was entrusted to the care of the apostle John for safety. John then brought her to Ephesus and took her into this stone house which is now known as the House of the Virgin Mary – a popular pilgrimage destination by many Christians and Muslims, who also highly respect Mama Mary.
Upon entering the House of the Virgin Mary, I was immediately overcome by a profound spiritual encounter. What I observed inside the house mattered less compared to what I felt – feeling the presence of Mama Mary herself. Almost instinctively, the only fitting response was to offer prayer and gratitude, recognizing that I stood in a place made holy. I felt that the House of Mama Mary functions not merely as a historical site, but as a place of spiritual growth.
Conclusion
After twelve days at sea, enjoying the ship’s comforts and the abundance of food and wine, I began to long for what my wife and I used to do back home – picking up our grandchildren from school and watching movies in Netflix and the pulse of political news from the Philippines in YouTube. The anticipation of returning home grew stronger.
The journey home was not without a problem. News of airlines reducing flights due to the government shutdown added uncertainty to our return. True enough, our connecting flight from New York to Las Vegas was delayed for almost five hours, a consequence of the shortage of air traffic controllers. Despite these challenges, my wife and I eventually arrived safely, coughing at times, but grateful that we made it home carrying with us a wealth of cherished memories and discoveries from our journey.
The header image is a stylized photo of a marble-lined street with towering columns leading to the Library of Celsus in Ephesus. All featured photos are by Greg S. Castilla.
About the author
GREG S. CASTILLA, one of the co-founders of Dateline Ibalon, is a graduate of Ateneo de Manila University. He was a recipient of the U.S. Department of Education Bilingual Fellowship Program at the University of Washington, where he earned a Ph.D. in multicultural education. He taught multicultural studies in several colleges and universities in Seattle as an adjunct faculty and authored eight books, the last of which is Magis: Things That Matter Most in Life (2021). He is a doting grandfather to his five grandchildren, and thanks his wife and children for what he has become.