Pioneering Pinukpok in Fashion

Kutur ni Jean and Jaq Hernandez are talented fashion designers from Bicol who have embraced the beauty of pinukpok fabric in their collections. Their innovative designs incorporate pinukpok as a central element, showcasing the fabric’s versatility and distinctive appeal.

The fashion line of Kutur ni Jean (Jean Alta of Daraga, Albay) reflects a fusion of modern aesthetics and traditional craftsmanship. By integrating pinukpok into her designs, she brings a touch of elegance and cultural heritage to her garments. The intricate textures and vibrant colors of pinukpok add a unique charm, making each piece a wearable work of art. Kutur ni Jean was the designer for five of 40 contestants at the Binibining Pilipinas fashion show held last March featuring exquisite works made from eco-friendly materials.

Jaq Hernandez from Naga City, on the other hand, is known for her avant-garde approach to fashion. She combines pinukpok with unconventional materials, creating striking and contemporary pieces that challenge traditional notions of style. Through innovative designs, Hernandez promotes pinukpok as a symbol of creativity and individuality. Paying tribute to the women weavers of pinukpok, she says, “Circular and sustainable fashion starts with the community and should go back to the community.”

The art of Pinukpok

Pinukpok is a type of fabric made from the abaca plant (Musa textilis), which is abundant in the Bicol region. The traditional production of abaca fabric undergoes three manual processes: “Paghagot” in which the abaca strips are manually extracted and the strands pounded to make the fibers finer, soft and smooth for weaving — hence the term pinukpok; “Pagsugot” in which the fine abaca strands are joined manually (categorized as class A if made of pure abaca; classes B or C if blended with other fibers such as cotton); “Pagabol” in which the abaca fibers are woven into finished fabrics using traditional handlooms.

A Bicolano mechanical engineer was commissioned by TESDA to improve a prototype two-roller rotary press originally designed by DOST. He came up with a wider capacity, four-roller mechanical rotary press which produced softer, more resilient abaca silk in a much shorter time. The same engineer designed and constructed steel handlooms which enabled faster production of the pinukpok fabric, less reliant on manual labor.

The Banquerohan Resettlement Site Neighborhood Association

The 1992 eruption of Mayon Volcano resulted in the implementation of a danger zone around the crater. This measure was for the safety of the residents, but which ironically rendered them homeless and jobless. The affected families were mostly farmers and weavers and had to be relocated. Because the weavers were already beneficiaries of the DOLE Region V Training-cum-Production program before the eruption, the relocated Mayon victims were the logical choice for the government’s Poverty Free Zone (PFZ) program.

Thus in 2001, DOLE Region V in collaboration with the Bicol Small Business Institute Foundation (BSBIF) chose the Banquerohan Resettlement Area (BRA) of Barangay Banquerohan, Legazpi City as its pilot PFZ community with Banquerohan Resettlement Site Neighborhood Association (BRSNA) as direct beneficiary and development partner – with pinukpok or abaca silk as the community’s core enterprise.

Community Impact of Pinukpok

At the inception of the Banquerohan initiative, a total of 140 members have been employed directly or indirectly employed by DOLE Region V through the program. Through backward and forward linkages in the production of pinukpok, more employment opportunities have been generated among the abaca growers, “tinagak” producers, embroiders, sewers and designers.

The local and foreign demand for “pinukpok” has grown larger and faster than what the BRSNA can supply. DOLE Region V foresees more communities in the region will venture into the production of abaca silk using improved technology and production methods. The livelihood program has provided sustainable income opportunities, empowered individuals and fostered a sense of pride in their heritage.

Featured Pinukpok Fashion Designers

The header features a watercolor painting of folk dancers wearing traditional barong and saya, El Kundiman by Jose Honorato Lozano (1821-1885), a Filipino painter who pioneered the art form known as letras y figuras.

Reference: Abaca Silk “Pinukpok”: Sunrise Industry Profile by DOLE Region V